Do we stay or do we go?

When Afghanistan fell to the Taliban we immediately paused trading with Afghanistan. After much deliberation, we have now taken the decision to continue our work in the country.

Here, we are sharing the thinking which led us to this decision, and the facts as we understand them, so that you can also make up your own mind where you stand. We are always open to different opinions and to be challenged, so please feel free to write to us at contact@ishkar.com to share your view.

Initially pausing our work was an easy decision

More than 80% of our products are produced in Afghanistan. Afghanistan is where ISHKAR was founded. The country is the heart of ISHKAR, and in the hearts of everyone who works here. Halting our work in Afghanistan was therefore extremely painful. Nevertheless, it was an easy decision to make at the time.

Firstly, whilst the world’s eyes remained on the country, we felt our greatest priority was to concentrate our efforts on raising as much money as we could for organisations providing humanitarian aid in the midst of the crisis. We launched a fundraiser for EMERGENCY Hospitals, which you can read about here.

Secondly, in the days following the collapse of the government, Afghanistan’s borders shut, logistics routes were disrupted, and the collapse of the banking system meant we could no longer pay our artisan partners even if we wanted to.

Thirdly - and most importantly - with so much uncertainty surrounding how the Taliban would govern and how our partners would be treated, we were not able to judge whether our continued work in Afghanistan would be doing more harm than good.

As the Taliban swept to power, we had three immediate concerns:

1. Would our partners be endangered by working with us? We were not sure if our partners' association with an international company would expose them to risk. Given that many of our artisan partners are female, we were also unclear how this would affect their ability to work. As a precautionary measure we immediately removed any photos of artisans and local partners from our website and social media pages.

2. Would the money we send to Afghanistan be directly funding the Taliban? We were extremely concerned that the Taliban would tax our artisan partners heavily, and by trading with Afghanistan we would be unable to avoid directly funding the Taliban.

3. By trading with Afghanistan would we be legitimising the Taliban government? It can be argued that by supporting trade with Afghanistan we are in some way legitimising the Taliban government. The Taliban could use examples such as ours to demonstrate that they are a functioning government that has the support of the international community.

Although the initial decision to pause our work was straightforward, the long-term picture is far more complicated.

Once the dust had settled in the days and months following the fall of Afghanistan to the Taliban, we contemplated the downsides of pausing our work indefinitely. The following risks were at the forefront of our minds:

1. Grave economic consequences. By turning our back on Afghanistan we would be denying Afghanistan crucial economic opportunities at a time when the artisans we work with, and the ecosystems they are connected to (material suppliers, logistics companies, landlords etc), are all struggling to keep their heads above water. The craft sector is a major industry in Afghanistan, with over a million carpet weavers working in the country. The collapse of craft means the collapse of a major economic pillar. When we visited Timbuktu in Mali, we were given a powerful premonition of how artisans were vulnerable to recruitment by Jihadist groups once they had lost their jobs. Read more here.


2. Psychological blow. Beyond jobs themselves, the loss of work would be denying our artisan partners psychological respite from the extreme stress of the ongoing situation. In particular, this is keenly felt by female artisans who are facing narrowing opportunities to express themselves and engage in meaningful work.

3. Eroding pathways. Turning our backs now would be contributing to Afghans’ deepening sense of betrayal, ostracization and abandonment. It will break connections and pathways between Afghanistan and the outside world at a time when they are needed most. More specifically, it will break normalized business connections, meaning the west’s interaction with Afghanistan becomes solely through the prism of aid. Read why we think this is damaging here.

The more isolated Afghanistan becomes the more likely it is that Afghanistan descends further into a chaos, and worsening poverty, famine and terrorism. Halting our work in the country would also reduce our ability to gather real stories from the ground and share a more nuanced view of Afghanistan that goes beyond the stories that typically reach our headlines.

4. Loss of culture. Without continuing to support Afghanistan’s artisans, many crafts risk being lost altogether as artisans down their tools in search of other work. Many crafts in Afghanistan are already in a fragile state, and only survive through the knowledge of a handful of experienced artisans, a large number of which have already left the country. As Afghanistan experienced in the 1990s, once crafts are lost they are extremely difficult to bring back to life. There is a real danger that the progress made through the hundreds of millions of dollars invested in Afghanistan’s crafts and culture over the last twenty years will be wiped clean within just a few short years.

Having weighed up the risks of continuing and the risks of pausing our work, we decided to continue working in Afghanistan. Why?

1. Ultimately we feel it would be more damaging for the people of Afghanistan to pause our work than to continue. We have extensively interviewed all our friends and partners in Afghanistan. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the resounding message we hear back is “please start trading again!”. As outlined above the people of Afghanistan are facing a horrifying economic, cultural and psychological crisis. We are only a small company, but we do have the power to carve out a positive impact that will make a real difference to individuals' lives. We will no doubt receive significant criticism on social media and in other forums for continuing our work in Afghanistan, but we are prepared to accept this criticism as we have heard loud and clear from those on the ground that this is what they would prefer.

2. Artisans do not appear to be threatened by working with us. Artisans do not appear to have been endangered by working with us. The Taliban are encouraging trade, and crafts are one of the few types of work that the Taliban allow women to do (even if it is at home). We will of course continue to monitor this closely, and if there is any hint of this changing we will take immediate action.

3. Through our trade some money will go to the Taliban, but in many ways this is no different to before. The only taxes the Taliban are collecting as a result of our orders is an export tax which is reported by traders to be around 2% of the value of the goods. So as a customer this equates to roughly 0.6% of the retail price you pay. This is unpalatable but in reality, this does not change much from the status quo before where the Taliban were taking informal taxes on goods travelling through rural areas (particularly carpets).

4. Trade legitimises the Taliban. This is inescapable and something that we cannot avoid. Ultimately, however, we are only a small player. Real legitimacy comes from governments and major multilateral organisations. We believe that the benefit of supporting the people of Afghanistan directly, outweighs the risks of our contribution to Taliban legitimacy.

We look forward to working with our partners in Afghanistan once again and will be bringing you a wide range of new handmade objects in 2022. If you have any questions or would like to share your view with us please do write to us at contact@ishkar.com.


What to read next?

See more of our writing here

Moral conundrum? | Letter from our Co-founder
  • 18.11.24

“I love my glasses and my husband wants to buy me some more. But I’m concerned about supporting a regime which is so oppressive to women. I’ve neve...

GUEST EDIT | Mathilda Della Torre
  • Guest Edit
  • 29.01.24

Mathilda Della Torre is a designer and activist whose work focuses on creating projects and campaigns that transition us to a sustainable, fair, an...

GUEST EDIT | TARAN KHAN
  • 15.08.23

One reason we wanted a physical ISHKAR shop was so that we could host events, talks, supper clubs, screenings, exhibitions, etc. A place to join wi...

GUEST EDIT | RUBY ELMHIRST
  • bookshop
  • 24.11.22

Ruby Elmhirst is a creative producer, working with sustainable and socially conscious designers, artists and brands on unique projects across an array of mediums. Originally from London, her family lives between rural Jamaica and New York. This contrast has vastly informed her mission to promote opportunity, acceptance, education and diversity within design. For this edit she shares her interior wishlist as we get into winter and spend more time indoors.

THE JADID MOVEMENT IN SOVIET UZBEKISTAN
  • Exhibition
  • 27.10.22

We spoke to Niloufar Edmonds, the curator of 'Bound for Life and Education: Sara Eshonturaeva and the Jadid Movement in Soviet Uzbekistan' about th...

My Pen Is the Wing of a Bird: Striking New Fiction by Afghan Women Writers
  • 26.09.22

'My Pen Is the Wing of a Bird' is an extraordinary anthology of fiction by Afghan women writers, published in Feb 2022 by MacLehose Press in the UK...

NFT Print Capsule
  • 04.07.22

For the Print Sale for EMERGENCY 2022, some of the photographers are offering one-off prints as NFTs, some for the first time!Including Matthieu Paley, Glen Wilde & Michael Christopher Brown.

EMERGENCY PRINT SALE 2022
  • 22.06.22

On the 15th of August 2021, Afghanistan fell to the Taliban. As the world looked on, ISHKAR launched a sale of photographic prints to raise money for EMERGENCY Hospitals in Afghanistan. Like you, thousands of generous people contributed.

One year later the world’s attention has moved on. However the situation in Afghanistan is getting worse and worse. We’ve teamed up with an amazing group of photographers to run the print sale again. This is our opportunity to show Afghanistan that we still care. That we have not forgotten. This is our chance to direct crucial aid to where it is needed most.

Collection: Handmade in Pakistan & Yemen
  • Collection
  • 14.06.22

Our handmade shirts and soap stone bowls, photographed by Charles Thiefaine on the island of Socotra, Yemen. November 2021. 

The Houses of Beirut by Julie Audi
  • Julie Audi
  • 28.03.22

It’s been a whirlwind for Beirut. Lebanon’s capital has spent the past twenty years trying to rebuild itself and its identity. I grew up in a city ...

GUEST EDIT | SELMA DABBAGH
  • Guest Edit
  • 23.12.21

Selma Dabbagh is a British Palestinian lawyer, novelist and short story writer. We asked Selma which ISHKAR pieces are inspiring her this winter. See here selection here: 

Act For Afghanistan: Ways to Continue Supporting
  • Afghanistan
  • 26.11.21

Now is not the time to stop reading, talking and thinking about Afghanistan. The situation continues to worsen by the day. So we've put together a few actions that you can take to make sure the world doesn't turn its back on Afghanistan, when it needs us all the most.

Mosul by Olivia Rose Empson
  • Olivia Rose Empson
  • 06.10.21

Mosul, a city in the North of Iraq, is gradually remembering the steps to a long forgotten tune. Once a vibrant area with art, coffee shops and lo...

GUEST EDIT | CARMEN DE BAETS
  • 01.07.21

Lebanese-Dutch Carmen Atiyah de Baets is CARMEN’s co-founder, a multifunctional guesthouse, kitchen, gallery and shop in the heart of Amsterdam.

Sicilian Street Food: Arancini
  • 25.06.21

  Sicily is famous for its street food, from freshly cooked calamari to crisply fried panella. One of our favourite Sicilian streets are Arancini....

Explore Neighbourhood Gems - Columbia Road
  • 17.06.21

This summer we will be hosting different pop ups on London's Columbia Road, home to some of London's best restaurants, street bars and independent boutiques. Combine your pop up visit with some of these local highlights:

GUEST EDIT | IBI IBRAHIM
  • 25.03.21

Ibi Ibrahim is an American Yemeni curator, artist, writer, filmmaker and musician. 

Know Your History: 5 Afghan Women You Should Know
  • Afghanistan
  • 08.03.21

Words by Shamayel, founder of Blingistan. Illustrations by Blingistan + Daughters of Witches. How many of these five extraordinary women have you h...

Blingistan as in the land (-istan) of Bling
  • Guest Edit
  • 05.03.21

We spoke with Blingistan founder, Shamayel, about the need for playful, bold, conversation starters that can change the narrative about Afghanistan. 

GUEST EDIT: JAMES SEATON
  • Guest Edit
  • 28.01.21

We invited James Seaton, co-founder of TOAST, to cast his well trained design eye over our collection and to be our very first guest editor.

Who gets what: our product pricing explained
  • ISHKAR
  • 26.01.21

How, we are often asked, can a box of six glasses made in Afghanistan, one of the world’s poorest countries, be sold in London for £80? In this blog post we aim to show you who gets what and why.

A letter in the time of COVID-19
  • ISHKAR
  • 06.03.20

This is the time for facts, not fear. This is the time for science, not rumours. This is the time for solidarity, not stigma. We are all in this together, and we can only stop it together.

Paradise Lost & Found: Babur Gardens
  • Lucy Fisher
  • 03.05.19

A guest blog by Lucy Fisher I would like to hazard a guess that the first image which comes to mind when asked to think of Afghanistan is probably not a garden in full bloom, carefully tended to by a team of dedicated local gardeners.  Despite the horrific turmoil...

A Conversation With Ibi Ibrahim
  • Interview
  • 02.02.19

A guest blog by Louis Prosser After almost four years of incalculable destruction and suffering in Yemen, you might think that the last sparks of beauty and creativity had been crushed. You would be wrong.Ibi Ibrahim is a 31-year-old artist working mainly in photography and film. He is Yemeni,...

The ultimate sacrifice
  • ISHKAR
  • 02.01.19

[replace_with_featured_image] Fig 1. Babur gardens [source unknown] Fig 2. One of the hospital's where Dr Jerry used to work[source unknown] W...

Timbuktu: A wild story of Myth, Renaissance, Rescue & Ruin
  • ISHKAR
  • 16.10.18

‘I don’t care if you’re in Timbuktu,’ we might say. ‘You’ll be here tomorrow or else!’ Or perhaps, ‘He’s flirted with every girl from here to Timbuktu!’ It means something like God Knows Where, or A Million Miles Away.

War Rugs
  • Louis Prosser
  • 08.10.18

'Bebinin, bebinin,' insisted Parsa. I was in the royal city of Esfahan, which the Persians call 'nesf-e jahan' ('half of the world'). In a cramped bazar beneath soaring domes and arches, I was in a world of carpets. 'Look, look: apache, apache!’ The word rang a bell (an American tribe?) but it took me a few seconds to see. It was a truly beautiful piece.

The Pin Project Viewed from the Ground: A Guest Blog
  • Sofya Saheb
  • 10.07.18

The Pin Project is an initiative ISHKAR launched on Kickstarter last year. We raised over £63,000 to provide jewellery training and work for displaced people living in Burkina Faso, Turkey, Jordan and Afghanistan. 

Soqotra: The Evolution of an Alien Island
  • ISHKAR
  • 28.05.18

Give a child a packet of crayons and tell them to draw a fantasy island, and they might well conjure up the Yemeni island of Soqotra.

LET'S WORK IT OUT!
  • ISHKAR
  • 12.12.17

As humans, we crave order. For many, productive work provides this structure. The world around us might be chaotic. But with work we can, at least at times, control what we do in a way we are rarely able in other parts of life.

Tradition as Radical
  • ISHKAR
  • 25.07.17

At the beginning of this year, Flore and I found ourselves at the world trade fair for homewares, Maison et Objet in Paris. After a morning of walking through the colossal trade halls we were quite frankly bored of looking at objects. We were just about to escape and get a coffee when we came across Sebastian Cox’s stand.

Handmade - so what?
  • ISHKAR
  • 20.07.17

Once a hipster trend, the desire for handmade goods has become thoroughly mainstream. It can be seen from the meteoric rise of Etsy, right through to proliferation of the word ‘artisan’ on products ranging from shoes to bread. Handmade products tend to be more expensive, and by no means assure better ‘quality’, so what’s all the fuss about?

Risk: Sliced, Diced and Sprinkled On Top
  • ISHKAR
  • 13.07.17

As wedding season approaches, we have been getting an increasing number of exasperated customers asking when our most popular glasses will be back in stock again. Well, here's the honest answer – we have NO idea

Traces of Aleppo
  • ISHKAR
  • 08.05.17

[replace_with_featured_image] Fig 1. Traces of Aleppo [source unknown] Zaina Sabbagh bought her first wooden printing block when she was 14. Sh...

Timbuktu & Back
  • ISHKAR
  • 05.04.17

I remember singing a nursery rhyme about Timbuktu when I was in primary school. I can’t remember what it was now – was it ‘from Kalamazoo to Timbuktu’? – but I remember the images clearly. A fabled desert city at the end of the world where Arabs and Africans would meet to trade salt and gold, and in the cool of enormous mud structures blue robed scholars would scribble marginalia in great gold embossed manuscripts.

Can 'crafts' really drive serious economic growth?
  • ISHKAR
  • 28.09.16

Yet we would be wrong to think of crafts as a small sector at the fringes of the global economy. Far from it, crafts are in fact the second largest employer in the developing world, and have a proven track record of leading a number of developing world countries towards developed world status.

Want to help Afghanistan? The case for buying over donating
  • ISHKAR
  • 12.09.16

The World Bank has ranked Afghanistan, as the 177th easiest country in which to do business with in the world. Unfortunately that was out of 188 economies. Here’s a quick barrage of some more dismal figures… In 2014 Afghanistan’s economy lost a third of its value, and annual economic growth slowed from 14% down to 1.5% where it hovers around today. 

The Journalism of Things
  • ISHKAR
  • 04.08.16

Every now and then a short video or article pops up on our newsfeed which tells a captivating story about Afghanistan or Syria that has nothing to do with war. For a couple of minutes we are reminded that countries like Afghanistan and Syria are home to talented, energetic people whose lives are not solely defined by the circumstances of the country in which they live. It’s a nice reminder, but we return to our day, forgetting about what we watched or read shortly after.

Afghanistan by Choice
  • ISHKAR
  • 13.07.16

Theresa May’s recent triumph as Tory party leader reminded us of a controversial decision she took earlier this year. Despite 2015 being the most dangerous year to date in terms for civilian casualties, she successfully lifted the UK government’s blanket ban on deportations back to war-torn countries.

Goodbye Peacock House, Hello ISHKAR!
  • ISHKAR
  • 12.07.16

When we set up Peacock House last Christmas, we only intended to sell a handful of cufflinks in order to fund a nice post-Kabul holiday. The response we received was phenomenal, and we sold ten times the number of cufflinks we initially expected to sell! What started out as a week of work for the young group of jewellers we were working with in Kabul, turned into five weeks of full-time employment.

An Artisan Against the Odds
  • ISHKAR
  • 05.07.16

The closing of the Greek/Macedonian border in March left 15,000 refugees stranded in Idomeni. This area became the largest informal refugee camp in Europe since World War II.

FROM TRASH TO TABLE: SYRIAN REFUGEE'S SOLUTION TO LEBANON'S RUBBISH CRISIS
  • ISHKAR
  • 25.06.16

Stepping out of Beirut airport you are immediately hit by the smell of rotting rubbish. It is a heady reminder of the rubbish crisis which hit Beirut a few months ago. With landfill sites overspilling, rubbish lined the streets of Beirut, piling up in forests and river beds surrounding the capital.

Lessons from Lebanon
  • ISHKAR
  • 23.06.16

Whilst European leaders complain that Europe is reaching a critical point where it can no longer absorb any more refugees, and concerns over immigration have driven the UK towards an ignominious EU exit - with a population of just 4 million, Lebanon is home to more refugees than the whole of Europe combined.

WHY MAKING MAKES US FEEL GOOD
  • ISHKAR
  • 02.04.16

I have recently taken up carpentry classes. I have no talent for making things with my hands, and the few things I’ve been able to make are very poorly put together. But for three hours a week I saw, I sharpen, I sand and I hammer. And it makes me feel good.

AFGHANISTAN - QUE LIRE, QUE REGARDER?
  • ISHKAR
  • 02.03.16

Outre le blog de Peacock House, de nombreux ouvrages/documentaires de qualité soulignent différentes facettes de l'Afghanistan. Ce pays a fait couler beaucoup d'encre au sujet de ses guerres, dont il a été le theatre depuis 1979, mais a su aussi seduire ses visiteurs par la richesse de ses montagnes et de ses habitants. L'Afghanistan se découvre aussi sous un autre jour..

The Glassmakers of Herat
  • ISHKAR
  • 15.02.16

In Winter, a thick cloud hangs over Kabul as people light wood and coal burning stoves to warm their homes. As a result the last few weeks Kabul’s weather has been described by Yahoo weather as ‘smoke’. We left the polluted capital, for the western city of Herat for a restorative break and to visit Hajji Sultan, the head of one of Herat’s last remaining glassmaking families.

The Birth of Blue
  • ISHKAR
  • 02.02.16

Until relatively recently in human history ‘blue’ as we know it did not exist. There is no word for ‘blue’ in Ancient Greek, Hebrew, Chinese or Japanese. As hard to imagine as it is, ‘blue’ was simply not a colour the ancients were familiar with.

The Danger of the Single Story
  • ISHKAR
  • 02.01.16

Last night a car rigged with explosives targeted Le Jardin restaurant in Kabul. The explosion killed two people, and wounded 15 others.

Be the first to know about our latest collections, pop ups & collaborations
£{{amount}}

Cart

Product added to your Cart

X